food

 

The golden era of the noble, ineffectual 'respect our neighbors' sign

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Until the rules went up in pastel colors on the left-hand door of Heathers on East 13th Street, it was easy to pass by without realizing that, behind those black doors in that black front, there was a bar. More

By Sarah Laskow

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February 1, 2012 9:52 am

 

Andy Ricker, king of the fish-sauce chicken wing, on Pok Pok Wing, his pocket of Portlandia on the Lower East Side

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As the name suggests, Pok Pok Wing is the place to try Andy Ricker’s specialty—the award-winning Ike’s Wings ($12.50), whole wings, drumsticks attached, marinated in sugar, garlic, and fish sauce for a decadent glaze, deep fried, and slathered in carmelized fish sauce and more garlic. (The chopped garlic on top put me in the mind of walnuts on a cinnamon roll.) The wings are enormous and meaty—two people can share a full order and have leftovers—and rather than relying on simple sweetness the way you might get from a honey-based glaze, the fish sauce adds depth and complexity in which the sugar acts as an ensemble player. Ike’s Wings are available regular and spicy; I had the latter, and even my roommate, who is sensitive to spice, gave the thumbs up. More

By Michaelangelo Matos

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January 25, 2012 10:56 am

 

In Brooklyn fairy tale, Girl makes cookies, girl meets boy (in the kitchen): The story of One Girl Cookies

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A decade on, One Girl Cookies might be more adequately named One Family Cookies. Casale and Crofton are married and have a 2 1/2-year-old son named Nate. The bakery, also located in Cobble Hill, now staffs 17 employees (headed up in the kitchen by Crofton), has added daily breakfast service to the menu, and is about to expand to a second location in DUMBO. Casale said she does not do much professional baking anymore (though she likes to bake cookies at home with Nate, and they do so often), but continues to run the business side of the operation while brainstorming new recipes with Crofton. “We recently discovered this locally-made honey infused with chilies called Mike’s Hot Honey, and are dreaming up ways to use it,” she said. More

By Leah Koenig

January 13, 2012 1:36 pm

 

Festival of lights yields a festival of fried potato goodness in Brooklyn

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If matzo balls are the proverbial nice old lady of Jewish cuisine (warm, squishy and endlessly nurturing), then latkes—the golden, lacy-edged potato pancakes eaten during Hanukkah—are the enchanting ingenue. And last night at the third annual Latke Fest and Cook-Off held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music, the ingenues were out in full force, holding court amid hundreds of fork-wielding attendees in all of their shimmering, oil-drenched glory. More

By Leah Koenig

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December 20, 2011 12:22 pm

 

French chef and author Stephane Reynaud knows how to roast

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In New York to promote his new book, Rôtis: Roasts for Every Day of the Week, French chef and author Stephane Reynaud went shopping for a roast and explained his approach to the heartiest of dishes. More

By Tamar Adler

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November 29, 2011 11:48 am

 

Quinn, Bloomberg and, separately, Stringer put the local-food issue front and center

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Great news for urban locavores and sustainable-food advocates: In the 2013 mayor's race, the food industry and its viability in New York City will, apparently, be contested turf.

This morning in Manhattan, New York City Council Speaker Christine Quinn and Mayor Michael Bloomberg headlined the city’s first-ever food expo, dedicated to connecting immigrant food manufacturers with buyers, wholesalers and brokers. They were joined by a host of other elected officials.

Manhattan Borough President Scott Stringer, who has been big on this issue, was absent from the confab and, according to his office, not invited. More

By Dana Rubinstein

October 24, 2011 3:28 pm

 

A tour of the New York City farm-to-table food chain, with guest-star onions from Texas or Mexico

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The tour was organized by the James Beard Foundation in anticipation of their James Beard Food Conference, which begins today. (Among the honorees at tonight's $1,000-a-chair dinner are first lady Michelle Obama, California whole-food advocate and restaurateur Alice Waters, and Fedele Bauccio, chief executive of Bon Appetit Management. More

By Dan Rosenblum

October 12, 2011 1:34 pm

 

Jeter worship, drunken rage, and gratuitous alarmism about a 'posh' Meatpacking joint

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Each day, the New York tabloids vie to sell readers at the newsstands on outrageous headlines, dramatic photography, and, occasionally, great reporting. Who is today's winner? More

By Tom McGeveran

July 11, 2011 9:10 am

 

Patty Baena's hair competes with cheap falafel; Derek Jeter wins by faltering

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Each day, the New York tabloids vie to sell readers at the newsstands on outrageous headlines, dramatic photography, and, occasionally, great reporting. Who is today's winner? More

By Tom McGeveran

June 15, 2011 9:15 am

 

Cheap pasta for fancy palates: An unpretentious pan-Italian bright spot in the Upper West Side's culinary dead zone

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Despite its central location, the stretch of Broadway between West 96th and West 100th Streets on the Upper West Side is more or less a cultural and culinary dead zone. For fine dining there are two choices: the country-French Alouette or the pan-Italian restaurant Regional. More

By Michael Oliva

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April 22, 2011 1:38 pm